There’s pizza, and then there’s pizza. When it’s made by fine-dining, foodie fave chef Tim LaBant, the pizza is beyond.

Parlor is the latest venture for LaBant, whose other Wilton restaurant is the Schoolhouse at Cannondale. Parlor is a departure from that, as a pizza joint that is turning out delicious, well-crafted pizzas that blend gourmet with family-friendly fare. The best part? His intimate eatery is located right in Wilton Center, in the River Park Shopping Plaza at 5 River Rd., a welcome culinary addition to Wilton’s dining scene and the third entry into what might now be called Restaurant Row.

Labant wanted Parlor to be in the center of town and for it to have a different vibe than Schoolhouse–something of a cross between the old school pizza parlors that CT is known for and a lively, great, neighborhood space. (It’s a sweet coincidence that Parlor is located across the shopping center from Tom-e-Toes Pizza, where LaBant had his first job as a teen growing up in Wilton.)

The space is small–let’s call it intimate–but it’s built out with around 30 seats, a bar, and brick pizza oven that LaBant says is called “the Ferrari of ovens,” all with an open kitchen for diners to be able to watch what happens in the kitchen.

“I wanted something with a vibe, high-energy, something inexpensive, with some nightlife, good music,” LaBant says from behind the pizza bar. After getting the restaurant going over the next few weeks, he’ll alternate between his two Wilton locations.

LaBant spent a few years learning the craft, focusing on the dough and how to make it light, thin-crust, and digestible, without being too filling. He’s got a variety of Neapolitan-style pizzas on the menu from margherita to mushroom, from pepperoni to sausage to clam–but each with an added zing, like truffle oil or taleggio, or broccoli rabe.

GOOD Morning Wilton visited Parlor the night before it opened and got a taste of what’s on the menu and had a chance to chat with the chef. And judging by the line of people waiting outside on the opening night, Parlor is a very welcome addition to Wilton’s dining scene.